Fragrance allergens in cosmetic products (Regulation (EC) 1223/2009)
Analysis of fragrance allergens as specified in Commission Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products.
This wide GC-MS/MS screening covers substances added to Annex III of the cosmetic products regulation by Regulation (EC) No 2023/1545, which added dozens of new entries to the allergen list. Some prohibited substances, such as Lilial and Lyral, are also tested for.
The following substances are included in the analysis:
Substance | Reference number in Regulation 1223/2009 | Status |
|---|---|---|
Benzyl alcohol | 45 | Restricted (Annex III) |
6-Methyl Coumarin | 46 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Amyl cinnamal | 67 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Cinnamyl alcohol | 69 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Citral, Geranial, Neral | 70 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Eugenol | 71 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Hydroxycitronellal | 72 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Isoeugenol | 73 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Amylcinnamyl alcohol | 74 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Benzyl salicylate | 75 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Cinnamal | 76 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Coumarin | 77 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Geraniol | 78 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Anise alcohol | 80 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Benzyl cinnamate | 81 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Farnesol | 82 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Linalool | 84 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Benzyl benzoate | 85 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Citronellol | 86 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Hexyl cinnamal | 87 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Limonene | 88 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Methyl 2-Octynoate | 89 | Restricted (Annex III) |
alpha-Isomethyl ionone | 90 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Evernia prunastri extract | 91 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Evernia furfuracea extract | 92 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Musk xylene | 96 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Musk ketone | 97 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Methyl eugenol | 102 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Alpha-Terpinene | 131 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Terpinolene | 133 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Acetyl Hexamethyl indan (Phantolide) | 134 | Restricted (Annex III) |
4-tert.- Butyldihydrocinnamaldehyde (Bourgenoal) | 155 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Sum of rose ketones: Alpha-Damascone, cis-Rose ketone 1, trans-Rose ketone 1, Rose ketone 4 (Damascone), Rose ketone 3 (delta-Damascone), trans-Rose ketone 3, cis-Rose ketone 2 (cis-beta-Damascone), trans-Rose ketone 2 (trans-beta-Damascone) | 157 | Restricted (Annex III) |
3-Propylidenephthalide | 175 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Acetyl hexamethyl tetralin (Tonalide) | 182 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Methyl-N-methylanthranilate | 323 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Methyl Salicylate | 324 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Acetyl Cedrene | 327 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Amyl Salicylate | 328 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Anethole (analyzed as trans-Anethole) | 329 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Benzaldehyde | 330 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Camphor | 331 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Beta-Caryo-phyllene | 332 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Carvone | 333 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Dimethyl Phenethyl Acetate (analyzed as Dimethylbenzyl Carbinyl Acetate) | 334 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Hexadecanolactone | 335 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Hexamethylindanopyran | 336 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Linalyl Acetate | 337 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Menthol | 338 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Trimethylcyclopentenyl Methylisopentenol | 339 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Salicylaldehyde | 340 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Santalol (analyzed as alpha-Santalol, beta-Santalol, Santalol (sum of isomers)) | 341 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Sclareol | 342 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Terpineol (analyzed as alpha-Terpineol, beta-Terpineol, gamma-Terpineol, Terpineol (sum of isomers)) | 343 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Tetramethyl acetyloctahydronaphthalenes | 344 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Trimethylbenzenepropanol | 345 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Vanillin | 346 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Versalide | 362 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Eugenyl Acetate | 368 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Geranyl Acetate | 369 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Isoeugenyl Acetate | 370 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Pinene (analyzed as alpha-Pinene, beta-Pinene, Pinene (sum of isomers)) | 371 | Restricted (Annex III) |
Musk Ambrette | 414 | Prohibited (Annex II) |
Moskene | 421 | Prohibited (Annex II) |
Musk Tibetene | 422 | Prohibited (Annex II) |
4-(4-Hydroxy-4-methylpentyl) cyclohex-3-ene1-carbaldehyde (Lyral) | 1380 | Prohibited (Annex II) |
2,6-Dihydroxy-4-methyl-benzaldehyde (atranol) | 1381 | Prohibited (Annex II) |
3-Chloro-2,6-Dihydroxy-4-methyl-benzaldehyde (chloroatranol) | 1382 | Prohibited (Annex II) |
2-(4-tert-butylbenzyl) propionaldehyde (Lilial) | 1666 | Prohibited (Annex II) |
Traseolide (musk fragrance) | - | Not listed |
Cashmeran (musk fragrance) | - | Not listed |
Celestolid (musk fragrance) | - | Not listed |
In most cases, the presence of individual fragrance allergens must be indicated on cosmetics packaging if their concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products or 0.01% in rinse-off products. More detailed restrictions are outlined in annexes to the consolidated version of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009.
- Suitable sample matrices
- Cosmetics
- Required sample quantity
- 20 g
- Typical turnaround time
- 3 weeks after receiving the samples
- Detection limit
- 5 mg/kg per parameter
- Available quality systems
- Accredited testing laboratory
- Device types
- Method expert
Cosmetics
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